El Calafate

I love the Perito Moreno Glacier. Growth from the center stretches out to the edge that ruptures crashing into the water. Even when the smallest white edge breaks the crack resounds and a raw blue of the glacier is exposed. And when you can pull your eyes from the face of the glacier to its body that snakes back into the mountains. The ice seems endless, and jagged till it turns soft in the distance blurring into the snow clouds. In this winter wonderland I was so tempted to stay, hike over the glacier, scale the peaks of nearby El Chaltan, but the promise of Buenos Aires pulled me north.  

Mountains and Lakes

Thanksgiving day I woke up in San Carlos de Bariloche, Angentina. The location is stunning. It sits amongst massive snow capped mountains with forested valleys that are claimed by lakes. friends from Valparaiso had recommended a hostel, and the owner Paolo from Buenos Aires spent an hour illustrating a map of where i should go for the best bike ride, hike and chocolate shop. This hostel serves fresh home made bread and jam in the mornings. I feasted with the snowboarding mohawked argentine and ponytailed german girls before leaving to catch the local bus to the famous Cerro Campinario.

 Gleaming with joy to be in a forest i leapt up the steep paths knobled with roots. The view from the top is majestic. I circled it several times before remembering my camera, and took insufficient photos. I descended slowly luxuriating in the vibrant yellow flowers, and cluttered trees.

 On the road to the bike shop a teapot shaped sign called my attention to a small cottage tucked into the mountain just over the lake, i promised myself a tea if i biked back before dark. By the time i arrived to the bike shop it was almost 3, and the shop closed at 6:30. The owners warned me that the loop usually takes 4 or 5 hours to complete. Tempted by the challenge i strapped on a helmet and radiantly neon green safety vest and pedaled off. At the first hill i disembarked legs weary from the cerro climbing, but soon i was in a rhythm. Fantastic songs snuck into my head and i bounced to the beat fighting to climb hills and  batteling winds across the exposed bridges. The entire ride was amazing, at times huge mountains cuddled the road from the left, or lake beaches on the right. Mostly the road just wove through the forest. Back at the shop i hinged off the bike trying to control my panting, they greeted me with confused smiles. Had i turned around or done the full circuit? The full circuit! I had returned in less than a hour and a half. We laughed and they invited me to their back room to freshen up. 

Knees wobbly i made my way to the tea shop.